Pete Desrochers : The Epicurean, and Friends : Edmonton, Alberta

NOVEMBER 29 / 2003

Mikado - Popular Japanese Dining

One of the most popular and longest serving Japanese restaurants in Edmonton is the Mikado, located at 10350 - 109 Street. The Mikado is bright, conspicuously clean and upbeat. The establishment is always near capacity at lunch or dinner, and many without prior reservations are turned away.

I was recently there with my friends and colleagues, Romana and Irene, as we tend to be partial to Japanese cuisine. Irene and I shared a variety of items rather than ordering independently, while Romana decided to go with the Deluxe Bento Box.

There are several Bentos that are available, each offering a different combination of national dishes. The Deluxe Bento included Sushi, BBQ Salmon Teriyaki, Beef Shogayaki, BBQ vegetables, Sunomono salad and rice.

Irene and I ordered the Oyako Donburi as well as the Prawn and Vegetable Tempura.

Romana's BBQ Salmon Teriyaki was something pleasantly different under the sun. It was light, distinctive and just a little sweet...as Teriyaki is supposed to be. Salmon was also a nice change from the usual beef or chicken, more commonly associated with this dish.

The Beef Shogayaki is a small broiled ribeye steak and ginger sauce. Normally, I do not associate Japanese restaurants with really good beef, so I was quite surprised with how good it actually was. Moist, juicy and flavorful, it did credit to Alberta's beef farmers.

Japanese establishments never fail to prepare vegetables the way they should be prepared. Be it the veggies in Romana's Bento Box or those used with our Tempura, they were fresh, crisp, still well cooked and firm.

The Sunomono salad is cucumber and seaweed in a vinaigrette Soya sauce. It can be served as a part of the Bento, or as a standalone appetizer with either prawns or octopus. It is quite satisfying and rather good for you.

The Tempura was delightfully prepared in a very light batter, which nicely enhanced the prawns and the vegetables. The Tempura had a very 'clean' taste, with little evidence of oil or other foreign flavors. Whenever trying anything deep fried, one can quite easily tell the cleanliness of the oil through the taste of your own meal.

For me, however, the treat of the meal was Oyako Donburi. Chicken, onion, mushrooms and bamboo shoots are topped with a beaten egg and served over a bed of steamed rice. The Teriyaki glaze was delicious, the chicken tender and the veggies, again, prepared to perfection. This is an excellent choice if you like unusual, yet not too exotic, taste combinations.

Of course, green tea was served throughout the meal, although two of us had a small sake each.

The cost of the meal for the three of us was near $75.00. At first we thought that a bit steep; but we did order a bit more than what we might usually.

BEST POINTS: The Oyako Donburi was the nicest surprise. Good overall quality and very well prepared vegetables.

AREAS FOR IMPROVEMENT: Service is friendly, but incredibly slow. They tend to crowd the tables a bit as well. Sushi is good and freshly made, as they do have a sushi bar, but it is not outstanding.

RATING CATEGORY: The Mikado continues to earn its very respectable 7.5 out of 10. It is centrally located with lots of free parking and a longstanding tradition of serving Edmonton well. If you haven't been in a while, you might want to revisit the Mikado.