NOV 2 / 2002

Holt’s Restaurant

On the second floor of the Holt Renfrew store, at the corner of 101 Street and 101 Avenue, tucked away in the south east corner of the retail shop, is Holt’s Restaurant.

It is an upscale, contemporary eatery that has bright décor, an open atmosphere, bubbly but efficient service, and an interesting array of luncheon offerings. Not surprisingly, it always seems packed at lunch.

This has become one of the favorite lunch spots for my friends Irene and Romana, when we meet about once a month.

Holt’s specializes in a variety of salad offerings, which creatively mix vegetables, fruit, and often either a fish or chicken option. Daily soup specials can range from Mulligatawny, to a spiced chicken and noodle, to a pesto soup with Parmesan crouton garnish.

The last time we went, the ladies both selected a daily special from a featured Italian menu. It was a spiced shrimp and rice dish, cooked in spices and Campari (an Italian liqueur that is often served as a highball) and fruit juices.

The rice was perfect, the shrimp were delicious and overall flavor was refreshing, but not tart. It leads me to want to try experimenting in my own kitchen with Campari.

Their meals came with assorted vegetables that were fresh, crisp, slightly scented and clearly not overcooked. They were equally impressive.

My choice was a very tasty sliced chicken in a pesto sauce served over whole wheat penne pasta. It was rich, flavorful and filling. The pesto was distinctive and the spicing did not overpower the cream sauce.

My only problem with this selection was that it was boringly presented. It simply came in a large bowl and plunked down in front of me. Just a little effort, such as putting the bowl on a large dinner plate adorned with a bit of lettuce, a few strawberry halves and a grape or two would make it much more aesthetically alluring.

Desserts are the usual pantry cheese or fruit fare. They are all fine, but a bit expensive for what you get. As often as not, we don’t bother with dessert.

The selection of wine is adequate, but the glasses (and more importantly the servings) are considerably smaller than most establishments charging the same amount.

As much fresh bread or buns are served as you desire, and the coffee is particularly good. They also have one of the best decafs in town.

The cost for the three of us, for a decent lunch consisting of drinks, but no dessert, was just under $45.00. Figure on most meals being about $10.00 and drinks about $5.00.

BEST POINTS:
Creative, refreshing menus that are rotated quite regularly, good service and the chicken pesto.

AREAS FOR IMPROVEMENT:
Wine is overpriced, but there is little to complain about.

RATING CATEGORY:
It is harder to rate establishments that specialize only in luncheons, but give it a credible 8 out of 10 in terms of eateries for the downtown lunch-bunch.