MAY 30 / 2002

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Zenari's - Good, Quick Lunch Downtown

Romana, Irene and I often go to lunch downtown, as we have done for many years when we were colleagues, as we continue to do. One of the ladies' favorite places to go was Zenari's. There are two Zenari locations, one at the corner of Jasper Avenue and 101 Street, and the other on the main floor of Manulife Place.

Zenari's, in a single phrase, could best be described as part deli / part pasta house / part bistro. While there are servers to bring your food to you, in one of the locales you have to line up and select what you wish, either from the refrigerated food display or from the menu on the wall.

The Jasper Avenue location is more traditional, whereby you can order from the menu at your table. Food at Zenari's is very good and served relatively quickly. This is important for the downtown lunch-bunch who only have from between 30 minutes to an hour.

Pastas are particularly good, as are their open faced sandwiches, quiches, and salads.

Romana and I went to the Manulife location the other day for a quick bite before a meeting. The lineup at the counter was long, but we were there less than five minutes. It was only a short time after that that a server found as at our table.

Romana ordered the Seafood Risotto. It was a richly sauced pasta dish with various morsels of finely ground seafood. While quite good, it was clearly the imitation seafood when had been used. After a while, one gets very familiar with that taste.

I ordered the Chicken Fettuccini. This, too, was more than passable. However one must keep in mind that volume and speed are the biggest features for Zenari's. So while we are talking credible eating, we are not talking haute cuisine.

Two things I did not particularly like. The first is that their desserts are way over-priced, particularly for the amount they serve. While the chocolate mousse tortes and other cakes seemed almost appropriate in size, I could not get over how many pieces they try to yield out of one poor little fruit pie.

My second sore point only applies to the Manulife locale. If you want to enjoy a glass of wine, you have to sit at a wine bar in the middle of the mall. You can't sit at the Zenari tables just at the entrance. Wine orders also have to be made separately across the way. It isn't the end of the world…just a bit of a pain.

However most are happy with any number of non-alcoholic drinks and a wide selection of coffee and tea.

Both locations are always packed and you are invariably bound to bump into someone you know.

Service is friendly and efficient. If you skip dessert you can have a meal and a glass of wine for just over $10.00 per person. Or, skip the wine and have the dessert. Other than for being awfully stingy with the desserts, the value is quite good. For a buck you can even get a decent focaccio that is fresh and large enough to share.

Over the years, I have found their daily specials to be particularly good, be they stuffed chicken breasts, or salmon features, or even steamed mussels.

They definitely cater to the home downtown crowd and do it quite well. If you want it less crowded, the afternoons would be a great time for a social meeting or a coffee and sweets.

BEST POINTS:
Fast, efficient, serving decent food. Service is notably accomodating.

AREAS FOR IMROVEMENT:
Stingy with the desserts, you may have to line up at Manulife Place. Nothing serious

RATING CATEGORY:
A respectable 7 out of 10.