FEB 26 / 2003 BACK TO ARCHIVES

SLazia - A Hotbed of Activity and Good Food

I meet with two close friends and associates, Romana and Irene, about once every month or two for lunch. Romana suggested Lazia Restaurant, located in the Eaton's Centre, but now occupied by the Bay.

I was not familiar with Lazia, hence had not thought to make a reservation. Mistake! The place was at capacity. Fortunately a table came open, but some jerks rushed to the spot and wouldn't leave, even at the request of the servers.

Feeling badly for us, an extraordinary staff immediately set to arranging another table with some smooth re-designing of a few table and chair combinations. Even when it was so busy, they maintained their composure, friendly demure and service quality.

Without having tasted anything, I felt I was going to like this place.

In terms of what we ate, all three of us went in very different directions. Romana ordered the California Crab Sushi Roll. I tend to like sushi, and very much enjoyed tasting hers. This is an excellent introduction to sushi, if you are a bit wary of the authentic Japanese versions with exotic raw fish.

This was light, flavorful, and fun. Of course it came with the pickled ginger and the mandatory wasabi. The menu mentioned that for this dish they use cooked crab and Alaskan Pollack. There is nothing wrong with that. Pollack is very delicious.

Interestingly, I get very annoyed when something is added or substituted and the customer is not informed. The only time I really reamed out a restaurant was a number of years ago for pulling that sort of thing. Full marks to Lazia for being up-front. The California Crab Sushi was still most enjoyable.

Irene ordered the Indonesian Chicken Satay. The thinly sliced chicken was tender, nicely cooked and moist. Spicing was appropriate and the rice was fine. Irene loved it. I thought it was okay.

However my selection was clearly the winning choice in my books. One of their weekly lunch specials was Roast Pork Tenderloin. The marinated pork was stuffed with apple-cranberry sausage. It came with a decent selection of sautéed vegetables and duchess potato.

The tenderloin was sensational. Flavors were smooth and compatible. The meat was tender, fragrant and juicy. The chasseur sauce got the tastebuds working in high gear and added a nice dimension to an already fine potato preparation.

To their credit, the vegetables were not overcooked…one of my pet peeves.

This is one of those meals that, if I were still working in the downtown area, I would come back for once every week or two…and would phone to see when it will be next on the weekly specials again.

It was not some magical culinary award-winning dish - but it was darn good.

The cost of the meal averaged out about $10.00 per person, including coffee. I had a glass of wine. So prices are about par with most places of similar quality.

Décor is upbeat and contemporary in a wide-open setting. Romana had been here on a couple of previous occasions and was quite complementary of her previous experiences.

One thing for sure, though, it's best to make a reservation.

BEST POINTS: Well trained staff and the pork tenderloin

AREAS FOR IMPROVEMENT: A few minor things - nothing serious. Management was quite defensive about being reviewed, though.

RATING CATEGORY: I don't give many 8's for luncheon spots. Lazia gets one this time.