Pete Desrochers : The Epicurean, and Friends : Edmonton, Alberta

FEB 11 / 2003

Sawmill a Definite Step Up

A delightful lady, and soon to be writing colleague, named Bev was in Edmonton recently. We decided to do a review together and chose the Sawmill Restaurant at 9504 - 170 Street, just north of West Edmonton Mall.

It has been a number of years since I was in the Sawmill; and it has certainly changed in the meantime. The décor in this multi-level establishment is elegant and refined. Intriguing art, royal colours, a fireplace, the buffet table and refined salad bar all contribute to a quite positive first impression.

It struck, me, however as almost too elegant and too pricey for the traditional luncheon fare…which is certainly how I knew the Sawmill back when I was reviewing ribs and fries there with Maurice Tougas.
Still, there is no arguing quality.

I enjoyed a fine Merlot while waiting for my guest. I promised not to mention she was somewhat late - so I won't. But it is worth noting that the staff was most attentive and very polite during the wait.

To commence, Bev and I decided to share the Panchetta Wrapped Tenderloin. This consisted of fine beef tenderloin wrapped in Italian Panchetta bacon that is served with a roasted garlic horseradish cream. This was a wonderfully flavored tidbit that went wonderfully with my Merlot. It is what I would consider a classic appetizer. It was also very good to share.

For the main course, I selected the Philly Cheese Wrap. Although not into wraps and sandwiches at higher end restaurants, the flavour combination described in the menu was too intriguing to pass up. Since I'm in a naughty mood, I'll leave this as a bit of a surprise. Suffice it to say I found it absolutely delightful - to the point of being almost addicting. It is something I will return to enjoy in the near future.

Bev went for the buffet, allowing us to sample a variety of salads, hot offerings and the soup of the day. The usual variety of salads was quite fine, as one would expect. However the Lobster Bisque was quite disappointing. It was neither particualrly hot, nor particularly flavourful. When we think of bisque, we tend to think of decadently rich, creamy ambrosia, brimming with the taste of the sea.

Bev's stuffed breast of chicken was also a bit disappointing, but mostly because it, too was a bit on the cold side. We thought of asking them to warm it up again, which they undoubtedly would have gladly done…but we were somewhat pushed for time.

Potatoes and hot veggies were excellently prepared, not overcooked and delicately scented. Unfortunately, there isn't enough of that kind of vegetable preparation anymore.

For dessert, Bev ordered a Crème Caramel, while I chose the house apple pie, at the suggestion of our server.

Now it happens that Bev is one of those Crème Caramel affectionados that take their desserts as seriously as those guardians of Crème Brulé. So it is not surprising that Bev was less than impressed. To me, it was pleasant. Not outstanding, by any means, but pleasant.

In contrast, the apple pie was indeed outstanding. Had I known Bev a bit better, I probably would not have allowed her to keep tasting my little treasure of apples and flaky crust with cinnamon, ice cream and a rich, caramel based sauce.

While our servers were most attentive when I initially arrived, their youth and inexperience began to show throughout the meal. I asked for a second glass of wine for my meal to a passing server, who was quick to point out she was not our server, and that we'd have to wait for our person to pass by. They also tend to grab the glasses by the bowl, rather than the stem when serving. That is only a minor point, but it will serve them well to correctly handle wine.

The cost of the luncheon for the two of us, including coffee, was about $55.00 including tip. As I mentioned, it is a bit steep for the usual lunch crowd. However it is ideal for business meetings or working lunches where you need quiet, where you need space and where you can properly entertain in an appropriate environment.

BEST POINTS: Nice décor, Philly Cheese Wrap, wonderful apple pie.

AREAS FOR IMPROVEMENT: They need to be ensure to serve their food nice and hot. A bit pricey for lunch. Some servers are outstanding, some need a little work.

RATING CATEGORY: Although Bev's opinion was rather harsh, I still give it a 7 out of 10. The quality is clearly there, despite a day with a few too many faux pas.