OCTOBER 1 / 2004 BACK TO ARCHIVES

Sicilian Pasta KItchen - Consistently Good Quality

My friend and colleague, Romana, and I recently went out to lunch at the Sicilian Pasta Kitchen, located at 11239 Jasper Avenue, just a minute or so west of the downtown core. The Sicilian Pasta Kitchen is usually very busy and one of those places where you'll likely bump into at least one person you know.

Easily accessible, with ample parking on the streets nearby or in the parking lot behind the building, it is a favorite of the downtown lunch-bunch. Staff is efficient and friendly, working hard to ensure you receive your food in time to enjoy it, yet get back to work promptly.

Each of us started with a salad. Romana went for the traditional Caesar Salad, while I was anxious to try the "Insalata Vizzini" This was in interesting combination of mandarin oranges, almonds and red onion in a balsamic vinaigrette over spinach leaves. The red onion - orange combination is an excellent and intriguing flavor combination. The sweet yet acid qualities of the orange and the gentle pungent flavor or red onions balanced well.

Obviously there was the right amount of both, so that one didn't dominate the other. The balsamic vinaigrette was a nice unifying factor. After enjoying this appetizer, I couldn't help but think of other similar combinations...like raspberry vinaigrette, sliced fresh oranges, peanut oil...but this will be for a future recipe column. The bottom line is that the Insalata Vizzini was delicious.

Romana's Caesar Salad was also very good. The sauce was original, the salad was fresh and together it was most refreshing. My only small complaint is that I have become accustomed to better garnished Caesar Salads, presented with more than just a few croutons. IN fairness, purist Caesar Salad fans are quick to point out that true Caesar Salads don't have a lot of bacon bits, or egg, or lemon drizzled on top. They are also quick to point out that chicken or shrimp in a Caesar Salad no longer qualifies it as "Caesar".

Again, it was refreshing and flavorful. We hadn't even gone past the appetizers and already I had things to look up and things to try out.

For an entreé selection, Romana ordered the daily special which was a seafood risotto. Romana often orders risotto and, although I had not thought of ordering myself, found hers to be a delightful change from traditional pastas. Risotto has a delicate but very distinctive taste that lends itself well to seafood such as shrimp, squid and mussels - all of which were in abundance.

The food itself was super, although at first it looks so plain just being served in a big bowl. Presentation was non-existent. Mind you, once into the dish, one quickly forgets the lack of aesthetics.

On this particular day, I was totally out of character and ordered the Panino Primavera. First, I'm not a big fan of eggplant. Second, I really wasn't thinking of a sandwich, any more than I was thinking of risotto. And third, I had been eyeing both a traditional steak sandwich or a veal penne. So the idea of selecting a vegetarian dish was the furthest thing from my mind.

Still, I kept being drawn back to the menu offering that featured grilled zucchini, marinated eggplant, roasted pepper, pesto, fresh tomato, lettuce and provolone cheese served on an Italian loaf. My Epicurean curiosity was truly getting the best of me. It's strange how great discoveries work!

This was one fantastic sandwich. Abounding in great taste and freshness and far more than just a substantial meal, it was tangy, it was mild, it was piquant, it was smooth... it was a whole bunch of great contradictions that made me forget I was dining vegetarian. My biggest problem is that I'm going to have a problem ordering other things that caught my fancy should I return there. The Panino Primavera made that much of an impression on me.

Wine selection is limited, unless you want to order expensive bottles. However one can order a liter ( or more appropriately 1/2 liter ) of a reasonably palatable Chianti at not too bad a price.

For dessert we shared a chocolate cake. It was moist and rich with a dark chocolate / cocoa finish to every forkful. It stood up well with a strong coffee to end the meal.

The cost for lunch, inclusive of wine and coffee was just over $35.00. The Sicilian Pasta Kitchen isn't known for being inexpensive, but neither was it that unreasonable. One thing for sure, they serve you copious quantities of excellent food. On previous occasions, when I have eaten there, the selections were most enjoyable as well.

The establishment is almost always busy, so it is best to make a reservation or make sure to arrive before lunch hour or dinner time.

BEST POINTS: Efficiency and quality food just about sums it up, but I want to give that vegetarian sandwich Panino Primavera one more mention.

AREAS FOR IMPROVEMENT: Prices for pasta dishes seemed high to me, even though they were very good. Also, limited selection of house wine.

RATING CATEGORY: A solid and well-deserved 8 out of 10. At some time or another, it is a must-try for Edmonton diners.